Blog favorites Emin and Ofili to design Olympic posters

YBA’s Tracey Emin and Gary Hume are amongst twelve artists selected to design a set of posters for the Olympic and Paralympics Games in 2012.

Poster idea? Installation by Anthea Hamilton

The posters will enable these talented British artists -- including Chris Ofili, Sarah Morris and Anthea Hamilton, but not Damien Hurst -- to have their work showcased on a world stage as millions watch the events unfold next summer.

Sporting sprit: Chris Ofili

The nominated artists were chosen from a list of around a hundred. Reuters reported that organisers would not disclose how they came to the decision, or why Hurst wasn’t included. Ruth Mackenzie, director of the Cultural Olympiad, said: "I think the answer is, we're not going to go there."

Emin -- whose recent Hayward Gallery exhibition has gone down a storm -- told reporters at an event at Tate Britain gallery, held exactly a year before the London 2012 Festival event gets underway (yesterday), that she wanted her poster to be a celebration of life in London.

"(I want to) show the world that London can really throw a party and that was what it was like with the royal wedding," she said.

"In times of depression, what came across as really, really cool was the arts. Arts and culture is the soul of the country," she added. "I'm interested in the party scene, the celebration."

Contemporary conceptual artist Michael Craig-Martin, who creates colourful images such as the one below, has also been selected.

Poster idea? Michael Craig-Martin

"Artists always bring something different, because you are bringing a personal language to it," he said.

Sarah Morris


The full list of commissioned artists is:
* Fiona Banner
* Michael Craig-Martin
* Martin Creed
* Tracey Emin
* Anthea Hamilton
* Howard Hodgkin
* Gary Hume
* Sarah Morris
* Chris Ofili
* Bridget Riley
* Bob and Roberta Smith
* Rachel Whiteread
Source: Reuters


Tweet

Isle of Wight Festival 2011

My face is sunburnt, my legs are weary, my nails are dirty, I have some suspicious looking bruises, all my possessions are damp, yes – I have just been to the Isle of Wight Festival.

All worth it of course.

The festival du jour due to Kate Moss’s ubercool presence this year for her festival hen do, I didn’t really know what to expect after being told by a friend it was “a chavvy Glastonbury” (as it turned out, a pretty accurate description). But chavvy Glasto or not, I loved it. As a Glasto lover I had to keep holding back the entire weekend from the immortal phrase “But at Glastonbury…” as the two are very similar, but IoW is smaller, more humble, dare I say – less pretentious? (…OK more chavvy).

Friday we unexpectedly stumbled on Laura Steel in the Big Top, a pleasant surprise and a great way to kick off festivities with her quirky dress, powerful stage presence and belting voice set against catchy rock beats. We Are Scientists put on a typically animated show on the Main Stage, their ad-lib dry commentary adding to the overall performance. The Courteeners were a personal favourite, the audience were just getting warmed up and their classic “Not Nineteen Forever” went down a storm. We held back in the crowd to watch Kaiser Chiefs as I’m not a huge fan, but the indie britpoppers can always be relied upon for a quality set. Kings of Leon, headlining the Main Stage, were a triumph. Although for many hardcore fans the southern US rockers have lost their sheen with their latest arena-tour type album, the brothers (and a cousin) can still belt out a TUNE. The spectacular firework display over the stage during the last song was the icing on the soul-filled cake.

Kings of Leon

Saturday saw an old-school vibe with an amazing Pulp and Iggy and the Stooges (who pulled Dave Grohl of the Foo’s on stage to dance), as well as the brilliant Seasick Steve. Foo Fighter’s headlined and the rockers pulled out all the stops to put on another mind-blowing show. The Vaccines in the Big Top were also amazing, with a surprise HUGE turnout despite the unusually hot weather.

Foo Fighters

The Vecks, a band who won a competition to play on the Main Stage on Saturday, are definitely a name to remember, with their indie catchy tunes and the lead singer’s grainy voice. Stornoway, Hurts and Lissie all played impressive sets.

The torrential rain on Sunday lead to a dismal turnout for Soul Circus on the Garden Stage (I think there were around six of us watching) the band were great, but I couldn’t help feeling very sorry for them. Twenty Twenty, on the other hand, had the advantage of playing in the under-cover Big Top but were ABISMAL. The Busted-style side-parted self-conscious young upstarts had an annoyingly large crowd despite their terrible pop disasters. Springbok Nude Girls, the unusually named South African rock/metal band, seemed surprised but appreciative of the huge crowd and provided a welcome relief from the previous pop rubbish, as did Various Cruelties.

Two Door Cinema Club were great, but my feet were beginning to lose feeling, there was about 50% rain water in my cider, and Pj had the onset of hyperthermia…so it was a little difficult to enjoy.

After heading back to the tent to change and put on so many layers I resembled Joey in the episode when he puts all Chandler’s clothes on (I could hardly even lift my arm to drink) we were ready for Beady Eye. The hype beforehand with backstage filming on the big screens of Liam flattening down his mod-hair revved up the crowd, but I think the festival curators decision to put them on as the second last act was a little off, I have the album but don’t know all the songs, and it seemed like the audience thought the same. A good performance however from a surprisingly polite Gallagher. Kasabian put on a stellar performance ending the festival on a high, all be it a muddy, sodden one.

Tweet

Tracey Emin: Love Is What You Want

The Haywood Gallery provides the perfect setting for Tracey Emin's dramatic, imposing works, as I found upon visiting the South Bank gallery for her latest cacophony of personal and intimate yet loud and spectacular pieces.

Even when queuing to buy tickets (£12 / £9 for students) you’re met with 47 year old Emin’s intimate musings when the artist wrote for the Independent “My Life in a Column” -- an interesting read when waiting for a late friend. I was already familiar with Emin’s intensely personal works so knew the exhibition would be on the self-obsessed side, the columns are like a pre-warning for those who don’t know.

And yet, I don’t dislike her, her colourful, beautiful yet violent and angry tapestries (above) are a look to the traditional and provide an insight into Emin’s passions and hates.

The large pier (above) with a crumbling little shack encompassing the first room of the exhibition portrays a delicate, fragile relationship with her father due to his long term alcoholism --it is both a loving and kind dream for her father and a tainted almost nightmarish piece.

The dark room (below) filled with eighties style neon lights with sayings such as ‘Love is What You Want’ are mesmerising and her installations such as an embriodered chair and a glass cabinet filled with keep-sake trinkets and items are a look into her fascinating life.

A video shows YBA Emin talking about her abortions and miscarriages -- heart wrenching topics much of the works are centred around, as well as the obvious amount of sex and masturbation frequent Emin observers have some to expect.

The works are gripping, passionate, and, at times, uncomfortable. For me, Emin as an artist is unrelatable, her tales of sex, hatred, passion, love and death are in themselves relatable, but the way they’re conveyed through intimate sketchings and sumptuous installation and paintings are less so.

This does not make it an unenjoyable experience 'Love is What You Want' is thrill to behold -- gripping, intriguing, amusing, and absorbing -- but expect to be let in to Emin’s world, and Emin’s world alone.

Tweet

Susan Hiller – Tate Britain

If you have a Punch and Judy phobia, I would advise you not to go to the Barbara Hiller exhibition at the Tate. In fact, if you LOVE Punch and Judy I would advise you to at least stay away from the video installations...as it may ruin your beloved childhood memories.

The huge video screens playing repeated, distorted images of the seaside puppets, accompanied with disturbing phrases, are the parts of Hiller’s exhibition that stick in my mind. There is however some slightly less obscure pieces to enjoy (such as the work above).

Hiller’s obsession with identity, language, history and documentation is apparent throughout her work. On reaching one room you’re greeted by another – slightly less disturbing but no less striking– sound/video installation, playing clips from the world’s lost languages. This was such an intriguing installation, conveying lost identity, words, languages and dreams.

Witness

The second installation displaying Hiller’s wordy cleverness is mesmerising. My friend and I could have spent hours walking around each speaker in, Witness (above). The glittering cables hang down in a blue-lit room, with speakers playing an array of languages. Walking round till your ears pick up a familiar tone is intriguing and engaging.

Hiller continually questions, what happens after? After you are gone? After the language has disappeared? The questions add a poignancy to her work, displayed clearly in Monument (below). The cross shaped work has blown up photographs of epitaphs saying phrases like: Henry James Bristow, aged eight, who "saved his little sister's life by tearing off her flaming clothes but caught fire himself".

Monument


If you can get past the Punch and Judy, Hiller’s – age 70 – retrospective is an engaging insight into poignant imaginings of an experienced master.

Tweet

Gabriel Orozco

My new Tate members card has been fully utilized of late - a fantastic present idea for any arty types - after I moved to London. The card allows freebies, discounts of cafes, use of members rooms and, most importantly, free entry to any Tate exhibition (with a friend too!).

I was aware of Gabriel Orozco's more well known works such as My Hands are my Heart (below) and Black Kites, but I'd never had the opportunity to view his collection of photography, installation and sculpture all at once. His latest show at the Tate Modern gives you an insight into his playful, provocative style on a huge scale.

My Hands are my Heart (1991)

The vast collection of vivacious photography and coltish sculpture such as LA D.S - a car seemingly a reflection of itself - is a joy to behold (below) and accessible for everyone.

LA D.S

The poignant, touching and funny obituaries with quotes such as "bassist and mock politician", "a painter of poetic realism" and "a cowgirl till the end" leads you to want to read them all (below).

Obituaries and Black Kite

So whether you're a fan already, or new to Orozco, his playful, interactive, stimulating works are a must see for all in this rare opportunity to see his vast collection of works.

Tweet

HRM Magazine

Social media participation is fast becoming an essential tool in business, but as its proliferation becomes ever more evident, can HR players keep up with this ever-expanding trend? Lorna Davies spoke to experts from Capgemini, Deloitte and Yackstar to find out whether HR is ready to leave behind its conventional cocoon and spread its social media wings.

http://www.yackstar.com/social-media.pdf

An article for HRM US Magazine ( http://www.hrmreport.com )

Bad Boy of the Renaissance

He’s always been known as a tempestuous, highly strung, complex and sometimes violent, passionate yet brilliant artist. Caravaggio’s dark, dramatic, realistic, strikingly modern works have struck chords with contemporary audiences the world over. But now it is his criminal record that’s causing more controversy than Pete Doherty on a Friday night in Camden or Ricky Gervais…anywhere in America.

An exhibition of documents at Rome’s State Archives shines a light on the turbulent life of the artist at the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries. Michelagnolo da Caravaggio’s escapades – including frequent brawls, one of which brought him a death sentence from Pope Paul V – are described in the hand written police records, all bound together in heavy tomes and carefully preserved in this amazing repository of Rome’s history during the Renaissance and after.

Old ‘Vaggio was a naughty one, frequently getting into fights. He brushed with the law after throwing a plate of cooked artichokes in the face of a waiter in a tavern – all very Naomi Campbell. His landlady was not a huge fan either. He made a hole in the ceiling of his rented studio – so that his paintings would fit inside (obviously!). His landlady sued, so he and a friend (logically) pelted her window with stones.

These brilliant new tales are all documented with eyewitness accounts in this collection of ageing parchments.

Tweet

Anish Kapoor: Turning the World Upside Down

I came across a unexpected surprise this weekend whilst taking a sunlit walk around Kensington Gardens after a spot of shopping on the nearby highstreet(only place I can bear to go on a Saturday). The Royal Parks and the Serpentine Gallery have put on a large exhibition of outdoor scultptures by acclaimed London-based artist Anish Kapoor.

The free exhibition showcases some stunning recent works never seen before in London.

The first one we came across was Sky Mirror (2006) – a stainless steel, huge circular reflective sculpture. Placed in front of The Longwater (near Lancaster Gate tube), the mirrored sculpture produces a dwarfed reflection of yourself and other visitors – similar to his works at the Royal Academy exhibition but on a maximised scale and the natural setting adding an entirely new perspective.

See:(http://culturecocktails.blogspot.com/2010/06/anish-kapoor-at-royal-academy-beautiful.html)

The rest of the sculptures follow a similar large scale highly reflective, curved mirror surface format – creating illusionary distortions of the much loved surroundings, contrasting and reflecting the ever changing colours and wildlife of Kensington Gardens.

Primark to release new limited edition label

Bargain hunters will be pleased- the former chav-turned-cheap-chic-store has announced that nine of its shops will play host to the sixth limited edition collection this March.

The new range will include bang on trend Oriental prints on chiffon with embroidery, as well as sheer blouses and tunics. Highlights include a peacock feather maxi- although it’d be great to see some midi trends in there as right now all I‘ve seen on offer is a rather plain black midi dress- not quite right- and a kimono (gasp!).

The new limited edition collection will be priced from £12 to £24 and will hit stores from March 1st for a limited time- so set those alarms! The nine stores are: Oxford Street (obvs), Bristol (yay!), Manchester, Liverpool, Glasgow Argyle Street, Bank Buildings in Belfast, Lakeside, Meadowhall, Newcastle and Birmingham.

I’ll give the verdict in due course…not sure if you can do geisha-chic on a budget…but I’m pleased they’re giving it a good go.

Souce: Diarydirectory.com

Boardwalk Empire

Set to be the new Mad Men in the fashion influence stakes, Boardwalk Empire has got me excited. It’s the perfect antidote for those of us who don’t have the killer Christina Hendrick-like curves.1920s sillouttes are perfecty flattering for most figures- but what I’m especially loving are the amazing accessories. From dazzling hair pieces to beaded sparkling 1920s style earrings- a brilliant excuse to dance away those gloomy January blues. The new American period drama plays host to some beautiful designs, carefully selected by costume designer John Dunn. Take a look here:


Another great thing about ths trend is the versatitly- despite the beaded and intricate nature of many of the pieces- it is easily transferable to the high street. This lacy number from Oasis for example- looks uber chic and- dare I say- expensive, but has just been reduced to £100- hurrah! http://www.oasis-stores.com/Lace-Fringe-Flapper-Dress/Clothing/oasis/fcp-product/3170082046

This red number by Topshop ticks two trend boxes with its popping colour block and layered style- http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&productId=2172251&

And if you want to go the whole hog- Asos have this very cute hat to cover up on those cold winter days.

www.asos.com/Catarzi/Catarzi-Felt-1920S-Hat/Prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=1356984

Terence Winter's epic new HBO series launched in the channel's premier Sunday 9pm slot last night, thus avoiding weekly conflict with rival period drama Mad Men. Check it out.

Cheer Up Boys

Just seen Razorlight's new press pic...seriously. It just oozes- 'We are so cool we can't even look at you, ergh, you disgust me.' Why is J Borrel still famous anyway? All he's done for the past few years is hang out in white skinny jeans looking miserable. Ok. Rant over.

Sick Feeling

Most employees feel guilty when calling in sick- a new survey has revealed.

The survey by CareerBuilder has found that nearly three-quarters (72 percent) of workers typically go to work when they’re ill and 55 percent said they “feel guilty” if they miss work due to illness.

With the cold and flu season in full swing, workplace pressures and “presenteeism” may be causing workers to go in despite the threat of virus spreading. More than half of the 3,700 workers surveyed nationwide from November 15 to December 2, 2010 said they picked up a bug from someone who was sick on public transport going to or from work.

“It’s important for employees to take care of their health and the health of others by staying at home if they aren’t feeling well,” said Rosemary Haefner, vice president of human resources at CareerBuilder. “Even if workers feel pressure to be at the office, they should talk to their managers about staying home if they are sick, or ask about other options such as working remotely. Most employers are flexible and understand that employees are more productive if they are feeling their best.”

In order to encourage a healthy workplace, nearly one-in-five (19 percent) of employees said their companies provided flu shots at their office. Nearly two-in-five workers (38 percent) said they were proactive and got a flu shot this year (2010). When workers were asked what other ways they attempt to avoid germs, 78 percent said they wash their hands often; 32 percent carry and use hand sanitizer; 30 percent regularly clean their office space; 15 percent avoid shaking hands with people and three percent skip meetings where they know someone is ill.

The survey was conducted online within the U.S. by Harris Interactive on behalf of CareerBuilder.com among 3,910 U.S. workers (employed full-time; not self-employed; non-government); ages 18 and over between November 15 and December 2, 2010.

The fashion jury are out for Leighton’s masculine choice. What do you think? (I am Lorna9848). http://bit.ly/dU5GH2

Kings of Leon Come Around Sundown

I think the critics have been pretty harsh on the Tennessee foursome, the NME claiming they've 'lost it'. I disagree. Yes, I am a little biased but their new album immediately stood out to me as different enough from their last offering, 'Only By the Night', but still true to their drawling American soulful rock. I like it, I love them.

Social Network

I was very dubious about this film. Why would I want to see a film about the billionaire geek who started the social network that now people are little embarrassed to say they're on? But, as the reviews were so glowing (ok plus Justin Timberlake is in it) I went along.

The acting is brilliant and, although it totally put me off him, you have to hand it to Justin, you're meant to hate him, and you sure do. I actually found it quite inspiring, a guy in college just makes a website and now he's the worlds youngest billionaire! Unfortunately, you have to have the brains...

So, go see it, that's all.

Oh also, just bought Tinie Tempah's album, it's great.

Reading Bands For Reading Festival campaign latest
By Lorna Davies



LOCAL music fans are saying "yes!" to our Reading Bands For Reading Festival campaign.

After starting our petition to get at least five local bands at this year's Reading Festival we headed to culture vulture hang out The Oakford Social Club to find out what people thought of the current Reading Festival line-up and the idea of getting more local bands involved.

With legendary rockers Guns n' Roses topping the bill on Friday night it seems the festival is following the retro trend set by Glastonbury last year. Retail manager Jayne Cummings, 36, said: "I am going to the festival but I think last year was my year.

"There's quite a lot of older acts this year, which is retro for the youngsters but feels a bit old for someone like me."

Jayne was all for our petition, and added: "It's a good idea, it would be good to see what I can learn from new bands."

Carl Barat and Pete Doherty have put aside their differences to play as The Libertines on the Saturday night before headliners Arcade Fire.

Steven Bentley, 25, from Reading, said: "It's not a bad line-up, if the Libertines show up! I think it's a great idea to have local bands at the festival."

Other big acts include Weezer, Blink 182, Dizzee Rascal and Paramore.

Rebecca Viles, 24, a senior sales assistant from Reading, said: "I think the festival is a great opportunity to showcase local talent."

Oakford bar staff Paul Hodgson, 21, and Sam Watts, 25, are both hoping to go to the festival.

Paul said: "I definitely think local bands should be given a better chance at the festival - seeing as it is in Reading, it has to be done. They've got the BBC Introducing stage but it doesn't focus on local talent."

Manager Ahmad Chaaban agreed that local bands should be given some weighting when the line up is decided.

He said: "I definitely think local bands should be given precedence. The fact the festival is on our door step should mean bands get a platform show their talents."

Store manager of But Is It Art? Nico Adams, 26, said: "There are quite a few bands I would like to see, a lot of the smaller bands look really good. I can't make the festival but I'm gutted I'm missing Weezer!

"I think it's a really good idea to get local bands on board, such as Pete And The Pirates."

Sign the petition at www.readingchronicle.co.uk/reading4reading

SATC2

Ok, so the reviews have been..less than encouraging. Peter Bradshaw of the Guardian called it "incredibly boring" whilst Anthony Quinn of the Independant thought the makers were flogging a dead horse.

Well Lorna Davies of ..ahem her room, says, it's OK. By this I mean if it's a visual feast with over the top opulance, glamour and unrealistic storylines you're after this ticks all the boxes. The sparkling glamour of the middle-eastern setting is reflected in the amazing outfits and you'll also be treated to a few laughs along the way. If it's excellent acting, gripping storylines and laugh-a-minute dialogue you're after, try eastenders.

bum note

Usually the favoured accessory for the sightseeing socks and sandal donning American tourist, yes you guessed it, the bum bag is back. Occasionally the fashion industry throw out a crazy yet practical trend, we had snoods last season and now, it’s the fanny pack.
You have Marc Jacobs to thank for this one; it appeared in his own line as well as in his collection for Louis Vuitton. This time round they are less fluoro monstrosities as of the eighties and early nineties, more tasselled, cowgirl hip-hoverers. Never ones to miss a cowboy theme, D&G also jumped on the, ahem, bum-wagon with an oversized, distressed denim (ooh we do love two trends in one) and tasselled one that you can have over your shoulder if feeling a little bum bag shy.
This fashion shocker comes along with the other retro trends such as cycling shorts and clogs that have reappeared on the catwalks. Now, I know you are dying to find out where you can get hold of this oh-so-stylish practical accessory yourselves; Marks and Spencer will be launching a studded leather-effect version, for around £15, in May, while across the pond American Apparel present a gold shiny one for a similar price. Want one right now? French Connection are doing a floral beauty for around £35 and River Island are doing a white canvas studded one that looks a little like a rockers codpiece.
I am dubious about this one, verdict from Reading students mainly consisted of: “What, seriously?!” However, think about the festival season and gigs, rather than donning a studded belt for festival chic you may well be popping on a bum bag, enabling you to relax with your hands free for beer, and while your friends laugh at you they’ll secretly be wishing they had one.

Anish Kapoor at the Royal Academy: Beautiful Chaos

“Mummy, is it real?” the profound question asked by a child at the Anish Kapoor exhibition to her mother is more accurate than expected. The exhibition at the Royal Academy invites the viewer to ask questions and involve themselves. The organic ambiguities of the sculptures allow them to become states of being.
Indian born Kapoor, is a British installation artist who won the Turner prize in 1991, with notable public sculptures such as Cloud Gate, Millennium Park, Chicago and Sky Mirror at the Rockafeller Center, New York, the doesn’t exactly have to prove himself in his latest exhibition.
This doesn’t, however, mean the works lack enthusiasm. On entrance to the gallery we are met with a glittering sculpture reflecting the Annenberg Courtyard of the picturesque gallery in each of its spheres. Tall Tree and the Eye (2009) appears to be some sort of mathematic structure, its ephemeral presence dislocating the symmetry of the classical courtyard. The day I went was perfect for it as the sun beamed through the courtyard, catching light on the sparkling monument.
Opening the indoor part of the exhibition we see, Hive (2009), occupying the Wohl Central Hall, the large geometrical and symmetrical form looks like an internal space but when you walk around you realise it’s also an object in space.
The most memorable part of the exhibition is definitely Shooting into the Corner (2009) and Svayambh (2007). Svayambh, is one of the most unusual and ambitious installations I have seen at the RA. It occupies the five galleries of the rear enfilade at the gallery. A huge red wax track runs through the rooms with a sold block of wax that slowly makes its way along the track. The block looks as though it just fits through the antique arches, occasionally splashing red wax onto the walls and floor of the white rooms. The word, Svayambh, translates as roughly as ‘self-generated’ from a Sanskrit word. This reflects the way the red block uses the building to shape its form, rather than, as is traditional, using a mould to cast a bronze sculpture, for example. Here, the medium is wax itself. Looking at, Shooting into the Corner, we are invited into a room filled with anticipated viewers as a straight faced assistant loads huge red wax blocks into a canon that shoot out wax into a corner of the white gallery every twenty minutes. The thrill of watching this event is undeniably exciting, murmurs run through the crowd as the canon spits out the shells of red wax, making a surprisingly deafening bang. This drama is what makes the piece so engaging. It also allows the work to be both a painting as sculpture as the walls are piled and splashed with the fired out wax.
The instantly recognisable ‘Kapooresque’ sculptures were the Pigment Works shown together in a room with When I am Pregnant (1992). Kapoor began experimenting with pigment colouring in the 1970’s with his work, 1000 Names. Walking around the rooms we see the organic sculptures at our feet placed together on the floor, they look as if they are natural and self made rather than products of sculpture. The surprises (of which the exhibition has many) are that some of the pigment works seem to be coming out of the wall. This surprise element is reflected in When I am Pregnant, as when you approach it you think the wall is flat, it is only when you get closer than you see it is convex. This sense of ambiguity is seen in most of the works in this collection, such as the emotive, Yellow (1999), that made me immediately smile. This looks, as opposed to the previous work, is concave, but it is only when you approach it that you see how concave it is. This, paired with the extremity of the colour, allows the work to overwhelm the viewer, as though it exists as a living being.
The mirror collection of works or, non-objects, are a concoction of shaped mirrors, distorting the viewers reflection, and are great fun. The whole exhibition itself is about involvement with the viewer. There were many children there when I visited, and I think this is that sort of exhibition that can appeal to all ages. I never expected to be as amused, intrigued, fascinated and surprised as I was on viewing Kapoor’s works. They are playful; form and formlessness intertwined with, at times, uncomfortable reflection. The interactive, awe-inspiring works set your pulse racing and senses raging, leaving viewers walking out with a smile.

Brazil: From Sao Paulo to Salvador in three weeks.

Carnivals, coffee, football and forests. There are a few words to describe the vast diversity of Brazil. Squeezing this breathtaking country into a three week, tiny budget trip would not be an easy task. That is, however, what I attempted to do this summer.
We started in one of the largest cities in the world, Sao Paulo. Having been warned by mothers, sisters, aunties, of the dangers of the city (tourist muggings are apparently a common occurrence) arriving in the intoxicating place was quite overwhelming. But Sao Paulo surprised me, in particular the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP). It holds Latin America’s most comprehensive collection of modern art (also great for me to name drop in an art history lecture). Getting into this gallery however, was slightly more difficult then we imagined. I was surprised that hardly anyone in Brazil spoke English, even in the apparently touristy Rio de Janeiro. It was quite refreshing and luckily I had my phrasebook handy, it was very dog-eared by the end. This and mosquito spray are my must haves.
Being a beach bum at heart I decided to head there as soon as possible. So we made our way to Rio de Janeiro. This city really did put Sao Paulo to shame. I have seen some amazing cities: Paris, Hong-Kong, Bangkok, Shanghai to name a few, but none are as beautiful as Rio. Springing up between lush forests and glittering beaches, Rio is Brazil’s most infamous city.
The famous Copacabana beach really is as glamorous and pristine as in the movies. This long stretch of sand emerging from Rio’s vast metropolis was great for people watching. From the amazing football skills to the thong bikinis (much to my boyfriends enjoyment) the diversity and sense of fun of the residents of Rio, or Carioca’s, is amazing to watch.
Football really is integral in Brazilian society. The whole country has a day off when Brazil plays a national game and the skill of even the youngest players in evident along the Copacabana.
The nightlife in Rio is like none I have experienced. The first night we arrived in our hostel, ‘Rio Backpackers’, we were welcomed by a cheeky Irish barman (I swear they crop up all over the world) who told us we had to go out in Lapa. Being an avid Lonely Planet reader, just the thought of this terrified me. The book portrays Lapa as a mugger’s paradise. But we decided to give it a go (sorry mum) and I definitely didn’t regret it. Lapa is famous for the landmark aqueduct, Acros da Lapa, in a style reminiscent of ancient Rome; the 42 arches stand 64m high. Today it is as well known for its nightlife. The streets were packed with people rehearsing for carnival; they seem to do this all year round! At every corner there were talented musicians playing samba tunes with exuberant carioca’s and tourists alike dancing the night away. The great thing about this place for budget travellers is the fact that you don’t even need to go into any clubs to enjoy the atmosphere; it’s all happening on the streets!
The drink of choice in Rio, and in Brazil, is the famous Caprinha. Wishing immerse myself in the culture I ordered one in my best Portuguese. What I had in mind was a refreshing taste of Brazil, what I got was a drink that tasted of nettles. I guess it’s to an acquired taste.
There are an innumerable amount of sights to be seen in Rio. Probably one of the most famous is the Cristo Redentor. Standing 38 metres high, the magnificent statue (Christ the redeemer) looms atop Corcovado Mountain. I didn’t quite know what to expect seeing this sight as the hype around it was so great, but it really was breathtaking. Just the sheer size of the statue is astounding as well as the astonishing views of the city.
As much as I fell in love with Rio, I wanted a more chilled atmosphere for a while. We had been recommended a little place called Itacare further up the east coast towards Salvador. In recent years Itacare has had a bit of a tourist boom but still retains its lovable hippie charm. Our guesthouse, Albergue o Farol, was run by a hippie traveller who welcomed all and provided cheap characteristic rooms. The great thing about this place is the lively reggae vibe along with surprisingly deserted beaches. Although not an accomplished surfer myself (I slightly resemble a baby seal on a board) I can certainly see the attraction for surfers, the waves are massive and the postcard beaches are untouched.
We hopped up the coast heading to Salvador and stopped at some beach destinations along the way. Many highlights stick in my mind, one of which being the ‘natural water slide’ in Paraty. This is exactly what it says on the tin. You slide down a huge rock waterfall into a lagoon below. As you walk up to the waterfall there is a huge sign that reads ‘do not surf’. I obeyed this rule (I was too scared to even take my hands off the rock) but the locals did not. Watching the acrobatics of the locals surfing, spinning, hurling themselves down the waterfall is a sight in itself. Definitely a must do if you’re visiting the area.
Salvador was our last stop on the trip. The bustling centre of Bahia has an African vibe preserved by the descendents of slaves. This merge of cultures provides one of the best carnivals in Brazil but even in low season (when we were there) the party atmosphere prevails and Caporera can be enjoyed on every street corner. This is a kind of martial art crossed with dance that was originally used by slaves to defend themselves from their masters. Now it has become a kind of Afro-Brazilian dance off that takes place around the streets of Salvador. To see a more professional show we visited the Teatro Miguel Santana and saw a breathtaking folkloric show.
The views from our slightly grubby hotel were possibly the best of the trip. Although the owner of the Arthemis hotel obviously had a penchant for large wooden fish that covered the walls of the reception, the included breakfast and panoramic views of the city could not be beaten.
This whistle stop tour has only given me a taste and left me wanting more. The Brazilian people are the most diverse and friendly of anywhere I’ve been and the carnival spirit is addictive. It really is one long party in the South-American country. The trip has left me with a lasting memory of welcoming people, lively nights and chilled beach days. I guess y